A hundred years of "red gang" for new clothes - Ningbo Haishu textile and garment industry transformation and upgrading survey

"Ningbo installed, makeup in the world."

More than 100 years ago, with a pair of scissors and a ruler, Ningbo people made China's first suit and the first tunic suit... wrote a brilliant page in the history of modern Chinese clothing, which created the "Red Gang Tailor". Gold-plated signboard.

Three or four decades ago, Ningbo people founded a group of leading garment enterprises in China, such as Youngor and Shanshan, to build China's largest garment industry base, and continued to write a new chapter of the "Red Gang" during the reform and opening up period.

Today, the apparel industry is suffering from overcapacity, high costs, and insufficient demand. What is the status of the “Red Gang”? In the future of the trillion-dollar fashion industry in Zhejiang, how does “Ningbo Pack” provoke the girders? Recently, the reporter has come to Haishu District, which is more than 30% of Ningbo's textile and garment industry and is also a pilot project for the transformation and upgrading of the textile and garment manufacturing industry in the province. He has visited a number of textile and apparel leaders and small and medium-sized enterprises.

From "old red gang" to "new red gang"

Innovative spirit reshapes industry

"Hey, come after the New Year not hire workers, material prices are going up again, this clothing line of business is getting harder and harder ......" for 12 years garment export processing Ningbo businessman Wang Mengqing met reporters on the complaint.

Reduced orders, rising raw material and labor costs, electricity providers squeeze profit margins ...... a lot like Wang Mengqing clothing business owners are faced with the increasingly slim profit margins dilemma.

There are more than 16,000 textile and garment enterprises in Ningbo, with an annual output of 1.5 billion garments and an output value of more than 120 billion yuan. In recent years, the scale of the industry has been basically stable, but it is a bit "not warm and not hot", accounting for a significant decline in the proportion of the city's industry. Some people think that the textile and garment industry has become a "sunset industry" for Ningbo.

"I don't think so. Textiles and clothing are not 'sunset industry', but 'sunrise industry'." Li Rucheng, chairman of the Youngor Group headquarters in Haishu District, told reporters.

"The report of the 19th National Congress of the Communist Party of China pointed out that the main contradiction in our society has been transformed into a contradiction between the people's growing need for a better life and the development of an inadequate balance. There is an opportunity for the clothing industry. Now I am fully trying to capture the clothing sector. , through intelligent manufacturing and marketing changes, five years after the reconstruction of a Younger. "Lee, he said.

Haishu District, the official also believes that the textile and garment industry by the macroeconomic cycle has little effect on overall labor productivity levels are higher than the general manufacturing sector, the key is to achieve high-quality development.

Many industry insiders told reporters that Ningbo textile and garment industry has a profound historical foundation and a good industrial foundation. It is necessary to rely on innovation to break through the bottleneck of the present, to boost the confidence of entrepreneurs, and to be inseparable from the precise policy of the government. Together, we will create an industrial environment conducive to innovation and development.

"'Old Red Gang' is innovative. It has created five firsts in the history of modern Chinese clothing: the first suit, the first set of tunic, the first suit shop, the first suit craft vocational school, the first A suit textbook." Mao Zehua, secretary-general of the Ningbo Garment Association, said, "Even today, whether it is Youngor's clothing smart factory, Danke's cashmere sweater personalized customization, or the wisdom of the Taiping bird store, Mai Zhonglin's IP marketing Wait, the frontier of innovation in China's garment industry can often see the 'new red gang' represented by Haishu enterprises. However, compared with Hangzhou and other places, the momentum of 'Ningbo's innovation' has been insufficient in recent years."

The relevant person in charge of the Ningbo Economic and Information Committee told the reporter that Ningbo has seen this problem. The fashion textile and garment industry has been included in the five traditional advantageous industries. Next, we must seize the 2025 pilot city and the “ Belt and Road ” construction pilot zone. Opportunities to achieve transformation and upgrading.

In Haishu District, a quarter of the manufacturing industry in the whole district is the textile and garment industry. It has gathered a number of well-known clothing companies such as Youngor, Shanshan, Taiping Bird, Lodz, and Lion Danu. Recently, the district has promoted the textile and garment industry. development of high-quality three-year relief program, this should enrich the people's livelihood industry employment, to build a vibrant billion dollar level fashion industry.

From "one to one" to "new retail"

Smart service empowerment enterprise

In the interview, the reporter found that more and more clothing companies have positioned themselves as “clothing brand retailers” and “clothing brand operators”.

Behind this is essentially the renewal of development concepts and strategies -

Since the reform and opening up, the development focus of Ningbo textile and garment industry has been placed on the production and manufacturing system, creating a world-class garment manufacturing industry and becoming a processing base for many international brands, but its development in terms of brand and service is relatively limited.

Under the new economic normality, clothing consumption upgrade, presenting brand new features, such as personalization, from the garment industry garment industry to the fashion industry has become an inevitable transformation, and the resulting brand new demand services.

"Now doing clothes, more importantly, service." Zhang Pingping, chairman of Taiping Bird, said that the times are different. It used to be a tailor-made "one-on-one" service for a few people. Nowadays, with the help of the new retail of the Internet and big data, it can be more The vast majority of the population provides personalized and intelligent services.

"In the past year, getting involved in e-commerce was just a helpless move." Zhang Jiangping recalled that in 2008, more than 20 employees were sent to the online store to clear the sale, who knows the effect is very good. In the second year, the company immediately added 4 million yuan to invest, and the number of employees increased to more than 80. Three years later, Taiping Bird first established the mobile division. “Electronics let us know where the consumers are. Now we can push nearly 10,000 colors a year. The new models are pre-sale online and can be shipped in 12 to 15 days. The data obtained online is offline. The physical store goods provided the basis."

In 2017, “Double 11”, Tmall has two clothing companies with sales of more than 800 million yuan, and Taiping Bird is one of them.

In September last year, after announcing the joint retail cooperation with Tmall, the company plans to use the massive data of Tmall and Alibaba, as well as big data, artificial intelligence and other technologies to transform more than 4,000 offline stores to create a new retail smart store. Sample, redefine the service. "The first smart store will be opened in Hangzhou." Zhang Jiangping told reporters.

"I understand that the core of 'new retail' is service. For Youngor, it is smart marketing." From Ningbo to Shenzhen, Beijing, Shanghai... In recent months, 67-year-old Li Rucheng has been busy examining the location of the new store. "Youngor wants to invest 10 billion yuan to reshape marketing. These new stores will be the basis for supporting Youngor's transformation into smart marketing." Li Rucheng said.

According to Li Rucheng's vision, Youngor's stores should be “the O2O experience center, the VIP service center and the communication center of fashion culture”. “In the future, customers can collect size data through the 3D scanning function of the mobile app, and quickly feed back to the smart factory to realize the selection in the store, online ordering and more favorable prices.”

From "making a brand" to "making a platform"

Financing development and rebuilding ecology

There are more than 2,100 textile and garment enterprises in Haitang, and more than 90% are small and medium enterprises. The relevant person in charge of the Haishu District Economic and Trade Bureau said that how to achieve the development of large and medium-sized enterprises is a shortcoming.

The 157 Entrepreneurship Innovation Park, located in Haishu, is a textile and garment entrepreneurial platform wholly-owned and operated by Boyang Holding Group in 2015. It is also an attempt to build an industrial ecosystem. There are currently 63 textile and apparel and related companies. Park for enterprises to provide office space, apartment rent relief personnel, start-up capital support, entrepreneurship training, seed capital and other one-stop service hatch.

Yu Juchuan, chairman of Boyang Holdings Group, believes that the textile and apparel fashion industry is a creative industry, and how to activate human factors is particularly important. In recent years, Boyang has given decision-making power to the frontline “persons who can hear the sound of guns”, giving each brand company independent operation rights. After a brand has achieved a certain scale, it will separate the most promising categories and continue to hatch... In this way, Boyang has successively hatched Ivy, Cotton, Tang, Ives, Husk, Demana. 19 sub-brands such as Sogou, the group's sales last year reached 16.6 billion yuan.

“Running a business incubator is to further open the door, integrate the entrepreneurial resources of the society, and promote Boyang’s transformation from a brand retail platform to a startup platform, so that more young people can succeed in business.” Yu Juchuan said that “157” opened less than three years ago. It has successfully hatched 9 clothing brands, of which 7 years of retail sales have exceeded 100 million yuan.

After the 80s, Zhang Shitong, in March 2015, under the encouragement of Boyang's “Encourage Internal Incubation”, took over the loss of Demana women's wear, and carried out online operations in the “157”, and recovered the investment in three months. In October 2016, Zhang Shitong and his backbone team received a 20% equity incentive from Demana. In 2017, Demana women's sales exceeded 400 million yuan.

Among the “157” enterprises, about one-third are “foreign households”, one-third are Boyang’s own internal incubation projects, and one-third are Boyang employees’ “joining” projects.

“At Haitang, Boyang '157' is a way, and Jiale Industrial Park in Gulin Town is another way.” The person in charge of the Haishu District Economic and Information Bureau told the reporter.

There are more than 1,200 textile and garment enterprises in Gulin Town, and more than 90% of them are small and medium-sized enterprises. At present, the Zhishang characteristic town with Jiale Industrial Park as the core is being built, and the transformation and upgrading of small and medium-sized garment enterprises is set up.

"Park being built surface materials development center, design center, modern distribution centers and other platforms to share the economic model to help SMEs with flexible production capacity, reduce production costs through intelligent. At the same time, through the introduction of designer gathering of industry resources, help Enterprises open channels.” Weng Wensen, general manager of the operation and management center of Jiayuan District, introduced.

"Haicang has a leading enterprise and a dominant brand. At the same time, a large number of small and medium-sized textile and garment enterprises have a relatively high homogenization problem. For the government, actively promote enterprises to implement intelligent transformation, promote 'Internet +', and focus on cultivating a number of service industries. The industry's public service platform, which is deeply involved and coordinated by enterprises, helps these small and medium-sized enterprises to achieve transformation and upgrading. “The relevant person in charge of Haishu District said.