Ruan Ji Designer: Jewelry is not how much carats

He has just completed a necklace that is probably the most expensive in the world: inlaid with 383.4 carats of diamonds and jade, a total of 11,551 diamonds; he has many big fans, including the popular star Faye Wong, the Moroccan Princess, the Russian royal family, Hollywood actress Salma Hayek and so on; however, his residence in Macau is only 30 square meters, still with his son. He believes that time should be left to creation, and he can only enjoy life when he creates. Chen Shiying, a sculptor from Fuzhou, is now the only Chinese in the world who can afford the name of the world's top jewellery master. He is the first and the only Chinese artist to be invited to participate in the Paris Biennale. He is also the first Chinese artist to receive a performance and a solo exhibition at the GIA of the American Gemological Society. He has also been selected as the cover by Vogue magazine in the United States, and has been sought after by many international media.

Recently, he has completed a necklace that is probably the most expensive in the world: inlaid with 383.4 carats of diamonds and jade, a total of 11,551 diamonds. To this end, Chengdu Business Daily reporter recently interviewed Mr. Chen Shiying, telling his own legendary experience.

萨尔玛·海耶克

"Is not fun"

Poor family

16 years old to go to the carving factory as an elementary school

Chen Shiying’s struggle history is more like an inspirational drama. He has an English name called Wallace Chan. He was born in Fuzhou and later moved to Hong Kong with his family. When the boy was in a bad family, Chen Shiying went to the third grade on and off. After his father was unemployed, he began to follow his family at the age of 12. At the age of 16, he went to a carving factory as an elementary school student to learn how to make ivory, jade and coral carvings. But he is not satisfied with his daily work. He is curious. He often dismantles all kinds of mechanical tools. The reason is that "look at what is inside", and the result will not be returned. When the boss calls the maintenance staff, Chen Shiying will watch the study seriously.

Because he is a family-style apprentice, in addition to working, he has to help with housework and child care. Repeated work every day has gradually made Chen Shiying lose interest, because he can't learn more things and "not fun," he chose. go away. But he still hopes to insist on learning the carving. He did not expect that this wish was rejected by his family. This also opened up his ten-year self-study process, and the place is a small workbench built in the corner of his kitchen stairs. . During this time, he was exposed to some traditional Chinese craftsmanship, making some works that symbolize auspiciousness.

By chance, he saw a book about Western sculpture in the bookstore, and immediately made him a treasure, greatly inspired. "I am surprised and excited, just like another world is unfolding in front of myself." Engraving, he even ran to a cemetery, imitating carved statues, angels.

"Shiying cutting method"

Find and transform

Every possible tool

Influenced and inspired by a photography exhibition, Chen Shiying began to think about how to engrave a lot of faces on a opaque gem. He uses the principle of light refraction to figure out how to make a point in a gem into 5 points.

The direction is correct, but he has encountered a problem in technology. "In accordance with normal thinking, the engraving should be left, but it should be right. It should be deep, but it becomes shallow." The initial excitement, As a result, it became depression and depression. Chen Shiying had to work during the day because he had not enough resources to live, and he came back to practice at night. With a little money, he took the materials and came back to practice, including using some cheap crystals.

After a year and a half of tempering, his skills can finally be freely desired.

So in 1987, he blended relief, sculpt, engraving and gemstone cutting techniques, and created an exclusive gem carving technique - the five-sided reflection engraving method, named "Wallace Cut" (World English cutting method), won the same year International Design Awards.

However, after the technology matures, Chen Shiying's next problem is that he can't find a tool that can meet his requirements.

Workers must first sharpen their tools in order to do their best. Chen Shiying did not give up. He went to a machinery factory and worked as a handyman for half a year, and finally transformed his handy tools. In order to dig up all the possible machines to polish the potential function of the jewels, he even used the vacuuming machine to repair the teeth.

Some injuries are invisible

One action lasts 10 hours

This is the most tired

If you look closely at Chen Shiying's hands, you will find that his hands are full of knives and scars. After so many years, he has not been able to remember the injuries he has suffered in his hands. The most serious one, "The knife flies over and sees five ribs, and the finger almost can't move." Chen Shiying said with a smile that he almost became a robot. The most dangerous one happened when sawing a large stone, because it was a tool that was modified by itself, it was not made so strong. "When the result is about to be sawed, the blade suddenly flies off. If it is a little later, my stomach and waist will be cut off."

These are still injuries that can be seen, and some injuries are invisible. Chen Shiying said that he usually maintains an operation or state for 4 hours to 10 hours. "This is the most tiring, causing internal injuries for many years."

He explained that this cutting technique must be engraved in water. "The machine that hits the diamond point is 36,000 rpm, and cracks appear when it hits the diamond," so it must be done in the water. "Cut in the water, take it out and blow it, then put it into the water to engrave it, then take it out and dry it." Cracks mean high cost and cost for diamonds. And such repetition is an extremely painful process. But for Chen Shiying, this is also a process of “injecting soul and consciousness into creation”. He sometimes focuses on and even forgets his existence. Chen Shiying said that at that moment, he was not carving with his eyes and hands, but carving with his heart and will, all by feeling and experience.

"18 martial arts"

More chemistry than chemists

More understanding than metal mineralists

As a well-known jewellery design master, Chen Shiying has been retiring for a year and a year.

Chen Shiying has "eighteen martial arts". He is proficient in optics, gemology, colorology, metallurgy, physics, chemistry, and even ergonomics. In addition to gem carving, he also studied Chinese painting, oil painting, and internal carving. Invented "Shiying cutting", he also created the use of titanium as a jewelry skeleton. He did know chemistry better than chemists and metal than mineralogists.

He has received a lot of "big orders" on weekdays, including a recent necklace with 383.4 carats of diamonds and emeralds. The necklace is set with 11551 diamonds and 27 types of wear. Its raw materials come from South Africa's famous Cullinan diamond mine. It is a top-quality giant diamond blank weighing 507.77 carats. It is extremely rare and rare. Chen Shiying said that he paid great attention to the feeling of materials when he took the order. "If I see this material is emotional, feels, and the degree of freedom of play is high," he will choose cooperation.

Up to now, in the creation, Chen Shiying still insists on designing, drawing, engraving and inlaying all his own hands. He never makes mass production products, and each piece is an orphan.

When talking about the title of "master", Chen Shiying quickly denied the reporter of Chengdu Business Daily. He said humbly, "I never feel that I am a master. I still need to learn, I still need work, and I have to explore art. The world. Because the skill is incomparable, the more you learn, the more you know.” In Chen Shiying’s own opinion, the word “master” is not free to use. He thinks he has not reached that height.

simple

"I don't pursue material enjoyment"

Stay with my son for 30 square meters

In film and television works such as "Carat Lovers", jewelry designers often have fashion-oriented image dressing, but unlike these descriptions, Chen Shiying has always been simple and low-key in life. He likes to wear long-sleeved shirts and cloth shoes. After making a cup of Pu'er tea and holding a big beard, he sat in front of the workbench, or wrote and painted, or made clay sculptures. It was a whole day, even in the middle of the night. Sometimes I got inspiration at two o'clock in the middle of the night and got up again.

Since the workshop is in Macau and the company is in Hong Kong, Chen Shiying often rushes between the two places.

Surprisingly and unimaginably, Chen Shiying said that he has no house in Hong Kong, and his living space in Macau is only 30 square meters, still with his son. In fact, with his position in the jewelry industry, he can live a better life, but Chen Shiying thinks that simple life is enough. "That is just my nest. My life is the same as 30 years ago, 40 years ago. I don't pursue material enjoyment." He said that his time should be left to creation, and he can only enjoy life when he creates.

“I feel more and more lucky.” Chen Shiying said that because more people started to understand jewelry and appreciate jewelry, people began to understand that jewelry does not mean how much carats, and began to understand the value of craftsmanship and creativity.

Unfortunately, Chen Shiying has not been to Chengdu. When talking about pandas, Chen Shiying joked that he was also called "national treasure" because every time he stayed up late, the next day his friend saw his dark circles calling him "panda."

“Everyone has the potential for success,” says Chen Shiying, who will only achieve success if he chooses to continue his search in the areas he is most interested in. When the Chengdu Business Daily reporter asked Chen Shiying about the secret of success in the 43 years, he joked that “you have to find a protector.” So what is the protection of God? Chen Shi’s English language turned back to solemnity and seriously answered, “Work hard! Effort is my own protection.”

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