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four patterns, one fabric
Today we’re thrilled to introduce Lyndsey, who’s part of our Advisors Circle. She recently sewed four Liesl + Co. patterns using the same fabric to establish a baseline for her future fits. Keep reading to learn how she accomplished this.
This fall, I had planned to sew a long-sleeve t-shirt, but I couldn’t settle on which pattern to go with. Liesl + Co. offers multiple long-sleeve knit patterns, but I was struggling to visualize which one suited me best. Normally, when choosing between woven patterns, I’d sew muslins to compare fits, but knitting fabrics vary significantly in stretch, making this approach challenging. After some thought, I decided to sew four different long-sleeve t-shirt patterns in the exact same fabric: the Neighborhood Sweatshirt, the Bento Tee, the Maritime Knit Top, and the Metro T-Shirt. By doing this, I’d have a solid comparison of how each pattern fit me and end up with four new additions to my wardrobe!
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Maintaining Design Ease
I knew I'd need to adjust the patterns to fit my body, but I wanted to keep the design ease intact. Design ease refers to the extra space added by the designer beyond wearing ease to achieve a specific look or style. For instance, if the body measurement specifies a 33-inch waist and the finished waist measures 43 inches, the design ease is 10 inches.
Sometimes I like to tweak the design ease depending on the style I'm aiming for, but for this project, I wanted to stick with the intended design ease while still accommodating my body shape. I prepared the patterns, took my measurements, and began calculating the necessary adjustments.
All my adjustments were done symmetrically on the front and back pieces using the pivot-and-slide method. [Note: Liesl + Co. provides a tutorial for a dartless pivot-and-slide Full Bust Adjustment (FBA).]
Creating a Pattern Fit Baseline
I chose the Robert Kaufman Laguna Jersey for this project because it's typically easy to find and can serve as my "standard" stretch level. If I choose a fabric with more or less stretch in the future, I'll have a better idea of what adjustments might be required. Next time, I’ll refine these patterns further.
Neighborhood Sweatshirt
First up was the Neighborhood Sweatshirt. Based on my high bust measurement of 36 1/2 inches, I opted for a size medium. The pattern’s body measurement for the bust is 37 1/2 inches, and the finished measurement is 42 inches, meaning 4 1/2 inches of design ease.
To preserve this design ease, my final bust measurement needed to be 4 1/2 inches larger than my actual bust measurement of 39 inches—so 43 1/2 inches. Since the original finished bust measurement was 42 inches, I needed to add 1 1/2 inches to the bust. Using the pivot-and-slide method, I distributed this adjustment evenly around the bust, adding 3/8 inch to both the front and back pieces, which totals 3/4 inch per piece for a combined 1 1/2 inches. I also added 3 inches to the waist and 3 1/2 inches to the hips.
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Bento Tee
Next was the long-sleeve version of the Bento Tee. The pattern suggests selecting by bust or hip measurement, whichever is larger. My waist and hips measured correctly for a large, and the bust measurement for a large was 1 1/2 inches larger than my full bust measurement, so I’d have slightly more ease in the bust.
I intended to sew View A without pockets. To match the length of View A as drafted, I needed to add 3 1/2 inches to the View B cut line. I achieved this using the pivot-and-slide method, and that was the only adjustment I made for this pattern.
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Maritime Knit Top
The third pattern is the Maritime Top. I picked a size 8 based on my high bust measurement. Following the same calculation method, my adjustments included +5/8 inch at the bust, +1 inch at the waist, +1 inch at the hips, and +3/4 inch in length.
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Metro T-Shirt
Finally, the Metro T-shirt. I had sewn a short-sleeved version of this pattern before but hadn't tried a dartless Full Bust Adjustment (FBA). Technically, I should have chosen a medium based on my high bust measurement, but since the large had worked well previously, I decided to stick with it. The pattern only provided the bust body measurement, so I could decide how much ease I wanted in the waist and hips. Since the t-shirt is designed to have a slim fit, I aimed for 1 1/2 inches of ease at the bust and 5 1/4 inches at the waist and 2 inches at the hips. For a large, this meant adjustments of +1/2 inch at the bust, no adjustment at the waist, and +1 3/8 inch at the hips. I didn’t add any length.
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After finishing the sewing, I finally got to see all the patterns side by side! Each pattern fills a unique role in my wardrobe. Now that I know how these patterns fit as intended, I can decide if I want more or less design ease next time. Hopefully, the side-by-side photos provide useful insights for you too!
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I skipped my usual forward shoulder adjustment, which is evident in every photo. I also need more length at the center front in all the photos to get a hemline parallel to the ground. While I added more width to accommodate a fuller bust, I didn’t add the necessary additional length. The Neighborhood Sweatshirt is supposed to have a high-low hem, but I prefer slightly more length in the center front.
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Once everything was complete, I was able to see each pattern side by side! You can tell that each pattern serves a distinct purpose in my wardrobe. Knowing how these patterns fit as intended allows me to make informed decisions about future projects. Maybe these side-by-side images will help you too!
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